The Leh Saga

Leh - A dream destination for every traveler

A traveler by heart, I also wanted to travel to Leh. But, traveling to Leh is not just kids play, you need to mentally as well as physically fit to cover the route. Apart from the fitness aspect, you also need 10-12 days to complete the journey. Busy in our jobs and day to day activities the Leh trip was postponed every year.

But this year, it's not the same story

The Plan

My close friend, Gurwinder Singh - A Govt. employee and a carefree person, was adamant that he is going to Leh this year irrespective of the fact if anyone other wants to accompany him or not.

I and another close friend of mine, Anoop Singh - A responsible, splenetic person, also wanted to go. Our team of three successfully completed the trip to Chandra Tal lake last year. You can read about that trip here.

So, to plan the trip, we were connected on a conference call and conversation is something like this

Anoop: So when we should plan the trip

Gurwinder: You two see about yourself, I'm definitely going and will leave by ...

Anoop: What's the fun of going alone. We all could go

Gurwinder: See in a group, most of the time trip cancels due to a problem of one person or other. I don't want to cancel my trip. So, better you two decide.

The conversation went on for around 17 minutes.

Gurwinder was stubborn to go and his stubbornness made Anoop angry. The call ended with no final crux.

The time was coming close, routes to Leh were opened. One day, Gurwinder dropped a message in Whatsapp group (We had made a Whatsapp group with a name 'Leh') and the message was: 'Now we are delaying the trip'

The message was loud and clear to execute the trip plan as early as possible. I was excited to be going to the mountains after a gap of one year.

The second conference call was scheduled for May 23rd and the conversation is like

Gurwinder: We can schedule our trip after 17 June.

Anoop: Why this specific date? and I can't go after 15th of a month. We need to reschedule the trip between the first fifteen days of a month

Gurwinder: There is another friend of mine who wants to go and he has exams till June 17.

The story got a twist. Gurwinder has committed to one of his friends to go together. So, now the story is, Gurwinder is mediocre between two parties. His situation is like a tour organizer who has to take care of everyone's needs.

Anoop: Then we need to postpone the trip to July

Gurwinder: Ok no issues

Gurwinder, who one first conference call was not ready to hear anything or mold in any way was ready to postpone the trip.

Me: Ok then, m leaving the group for now. You can add me back on June 23

Anoop: Why so?

Me: All 3 of you are ok with the dates of the trip in July but I can't say it right now if I'll be available in July or not. What if the company people didn't give me that long holidays in July? Then you'll blame me that for canceling the trip. So, you 3 keep your trip dates final and just add me June 23, I'll tell you if I'll be able to make it to the trip or not.

Anoop: Ok

Gurwinder: I could ask the other person if he could go before June 15

The call ended

After 2 days, Gurwinder dropped a message in the group that the other person is ready to go before June 15 and he could give his exams in December.

The trip dates were finalized

The scene now: 4 People, 9 days, 3 bikes and 1 Destination

The route

The Plan, dates, and the people were finalized for the tour. Now, as we were going by Road, we need to finalize by which route we'll be going.

There were two options:

1. By Manali
2. By Kashmir

Each route has it's own pros and cons. Manali side, we could get rough roads and huge traffic jams. As it's the peak tourist season so everyone is traveling to hill stations, giving rise to huge traffic jams.

Kashmir side, the roads are beautiful and no traffic jams but we fear of curfew situation or any stone-pelting.

Gurwinder's brother is in the army and he sent him two videos which show violence in Kashmir. He sent those videos to our WhatsApp group.

So, each route has its own charm as well as a flip side too.

We decided to go via Kashmir as By Manali one needs to take permit.

Also we know that going by kashmir, 9 days are not enough. So, we planned to leave on 8th June in the afternoon.

The route plan was

Day 1: Ludhiana to Jammu

Day 2: Jammu to Srinagar

Day 3: Srinagar to Kargil

Day 4: Kargil to Leh

Day 5, 6, 7: Stay

Day 8, 9, 10: Return via Manali

Day 1: Day to Leave

Lots and lots of discussions and finally the time for execution of the plan came. I went to the office as early as 5am in the morning.

After completing the working hours, I drove back to home, packed bags and left for Ludhiana.

Gurwinder and his friend Sukhpreet Singh also left from there homes. They reached Anoop's place at around 5pm. 

We all met at Jalandhar bypass at 6.30pm

The make up

The responsibilities were distributed previously. Anoop and Gurwinder were to get their bikes serviced.

Anoop brought the bike riding kit. The elbow guard, leg guard.

At Jalandhar bypass, we did the make-up as a RIDER and it was time to start this EPIC JOURNEY

Our First selfie Together before leaving - At Jalandhar Bypass

UnPlanned Packing

As we were crossing Phagwara and about to enter Jalandhar, it started to rain.

We thought that it is just a little shower and it'll stop. But, it rained continuously, as if it was a signal that we should stop and not go further.

We stopped at the roadside to wear raincoats.

All the three other know where they have kept the raincoats. But, I only knew that I have brought it but don't know where I have kept it.

I first saw the small bag pack with me, it was not there. Then I checked the side pockets of the main bag. It was still not there.

I asked Sukhpreet to unpack my bag. I picked up my bag and sat on the roadside. Unpacked my bag fully. My both bags were fully messed up but the raincoat was still missing.

All three saw me doing this and had a hearty laugh.

Finally, after 10 minutes of searching, I found my raincoat. After that, for the entire trip, I kept the raincoat in my little Backpack.

Keep on moving

We planned that all the three bikes should in synchronization with each other. Anoop will be leading the way, Sukhpreet in the middle and the third bike at last.

It was already 8pm and we have not moved much far.

It is not possible to reach Jammu so we decided to stay at Pathankot on Day 1.

In the actual warfield, the things are not always as planned, you need to adapt to the changes.

The rain stopped as soon as we crossed Jalandhar.

Pathankot is roughly 110km from there.

After driving around 70 km's we stopped to take a break. At this point, Gurwinder and Anoop exchanged bikes. Gurwinder will be driving Anoop's bike and will stay on front. Anoop will be driving the third bike.

Just as we were about to reach, 15 km's behind from Pathankot, winds started to blow and we got a feeling that it'll be raining again.

Sensing of stormy weather ahead, Gurwinder stopped the bike and signaled others to stop also.

Anoop who is driving the third bike continued to drive and signaled Gurwinder and Sukhpreet to KEEP ON MOVING.

Though it rained but just after 5 minutes, the rain stopped and we reached our destination.

The similar thing is in life, when we sense trouble ahead, we tend to stop. But, we should KEEP ON MOVING and don't stop till we reach our destination. The trouble is only for a short period of time.

I made a call back home at around 11pm that we reached the destination for Day 1.

Day 2: More road to cover

The sleep on Day 1 was great as we were fully tired.

On Day 2 we know that we need to cover more to reach Srinagar. So, we woke up at around 7am, got ready by 8pm and left the hotel.

Our meal first meal of the day was the famous Vadapav near Pathankot.

Gurwinder and Sukhpreet - Outside the Vadapav shop

Me - Outside the same shop

After that, we started and our aim was to keep the momentum going to reach the destination (Srinagar) on time.

On the Way, we crossed the famous tunnel of J&k, the Chenani-Nashri tunnel known as the Patnitop tunnel.

Outside view of Chenani-Nashri tunnel

The tunnel is India's longest road tunnel with a length of 9.28km

We crossed beautiful paths, the weather was pleasant and we reached Srinagar at around 6pm.

It was drizzling and to make the most of the pleasant weather we tried to book a stay in a House Boat at Dal Lake.

After around 30 minutes of struggle, we finally managed to book a room in House Boat.

Known Unknown at Lake

Anoop previously had been to Dal lake just 15 to 20 days before this tour. The memories of that tour was still afresh in his mind. 

At that time, he had clicked a selfie with a shikara owner at that time.

He went to the Dal lake and started looking in the shikaras.

We were confused and the shikara owners got confused also.

After 5 minutes, he signaled a shikara owner 'Arre bhai kaise ho (Hello Brother! How are you?)'

He greeted him with equal enthusiasm.

I was standing next to Anoop and I was totally confused about what is happening.

I was like 'Anoop had links with shikara owners of Kashmir?'

After that initial greeting, Anoop showed him the selfie that he clicked with the owner of shikara just 15-20 days back.

Now the things got clear to me.

The shikara owner was so happy after seeing his pic that called all other shikara owners and showed them the pic. The happiness was clearly reflecting on his face.

I was amazed seeing how people in the town far away are connected with us and share happiness.

Anoop and the shikara owner are known to each other by selfie and unknown to each other by name. 'Known by selfie, unknown by name'

The Gedi

You might have heard about the Chandigarh's gedi route in many punjabi songs but the gedi on the Dal lake is far more sooting and captivating.

It was evening time, we kept the luggage in our hotel room. It was drizzling and we were in literally the HEAVEN ON EARTH - KASHMIR

View from Dal Lake - Kashmir

Me - At Dal Lake

We were in no mood to just sit back in the hotel rooms. We started the bikes and it's gedi time on Dal Lake.

Anoop enjoying gedi at Dal Lake - Srinagar

We went to Chashme Shahi Garden. It is a Mughal Garden and the water there comes straight from the mountains. It is believed that the water is the purest.

Our First Prime Minister, Dr. Jawahar Lal Nehru, use to drink this water.

Gurwinder and Sukhpreet outside Chashme Shahi

The water of Chashme Shahi

Gala Time at Night

After dinner, we went back to the hotel room.

The houseboat is a great stay for couples. In the houseboat where we have booked a room, all the other rooms are booked by couples. But, little did they know that there is a little hole in every room from where one could see what's happening in the other room.

I was tired, went to bed and slept straight away.

The other 3 co-travelers told me in the morning that while you were sleeping, the people in other rooms were having a Gala time.

Day 3 - Off to Kargil

Now is the real test of our driving skills. From Srinagar to kargil, the road will be tough, high altitude, there might be some breathing problems as well.

We need to be more mentally tough this time.

First thing to do after waking up is to make our bikes ready for the tough terrain ahead

Gurwinder getting ready for the ride with his bike

We stayed in a house boat named 'Alexandra' and the owner become a good friend. We clicked a selfie with him that just in-case we return to this place again, we can show the selfie to him. Said a final goodbye to him other people there.

Our Gang with Owner of Alexendra houseboat

And it's time to leave the beautiful Dal lake

After Breakfast - Outside Dal lake Kashmir

Before we leave Srinagar, we need to purchase some items for the tough road ahead. We need empty fuel cans and also some other stuff. So, we went to the market in Srinagar and Anoop, Sukhpreet went to the famous Lal chowk Market to purchase the stuff.

After we have done the purchasing, it's time to hit the road once again.

This time we were very late, it's already 12 noon.

Beautiful Roads

The road from Srinagar to Kargil was most of the times very beautiful. Sometimes, the road was tough but the tough patch was very short.

Me - On the road from Srinagar to Kargil

On this journey, we stopped very less and tried to cover the route as early as possible.

The scenic beauty can't be described in words, m attaching some photographs that will give you a clear idea of scenic beauty there.

We crossed beautiful Sonmarg. This place is also known as Golden Meadows which means Gold. This is a very beautiful and place. If you want to experience the peace then visit Sonmarg.

At Zojila Pass. Altitude 11649 Ft.

The Road from Srinagar to Kargil

The Scenic Beauty of the place - nothing to explain just enjoy the view

Me (Pic Credits: Anoop Singh)

There were so many beautiful pics, not just mine but of every group member. But, I can't upload every image here.

The Kargil War Memorial

Just 50 km's before Kargil, there is Kargil war memorial.

We stopped at this place.

The Kargil War Memorial - Outside View

The Quote written outside 'All save some, some save all, Gone but never forgotten'

These are our national heroes. They have sacrificed their lives for our freedom. If we are roaming freely in our country then it's because of their sacrifice.

Their sacrifice is supreme

It is difficult to breathe at this altitude. The Army person are not only living there but also protecting our motherland.

A Grand Salute to every Army Person

My Point of view: People go the war memorial, click their pics in different poses just to upload on Social Media websites. This thing is not good at all.

In my view, this is the highest sacred place, we should bow our heads in respect, read about their supreme sacrifice.

People have made it as a tourist spot where they come, click pics and go. This is a sacred place, not a tourist spot. We should show some respect.

The Drive and the 5th person

At the Kargil war memorial, we met with a person who was also going to Kargil.

He said he wanted to join us. Though we were reluctant but couldn't say no.

He was riding his own bullet.

At first, I was on the driving seat and Gurwinder on the back seat.

We know we need to go on a good speed to cover the remaining distance. It was already dark but the distance to be covered was more.

When I drove Bullet, we always leave behind as I drove at slow speed because I know at high speed I couldn't control and the people in front of us had to slow down or wait for us to join.

Anoop and Sukhpreet started, they were driving at good speed. Earlier, I tried to match them. The fifth person, who was riding his own bullet was behind us.

As Anoop and Sukhpreet were driving at high speed, I lost pace and the fifth person overtook us.

It was already dark and people (Anoop, sukhpreet) in front of us had only one signal, that is, the headlight of the bike, using which they knew that the persons behind us are coming.

If they don't see the headlight of the third bike, they stop.

But now, as we lost pace, the fifth person who recently joined had already overtaken his bike. So, they continue to believe that our people are coming.

Gurwinder told me that they'll leave us if you continue to drive at this pace.

He offered to drive. I declined and continue to drive.

I try to speed up a bit but on the very first cut, I fumbled a bit and I knew that I'll not be able to handle it.

I stopped the bike and handed it to Gurwinder.

Gurwinder knew that the people ahead were already driving at high speed and if we need to match them we need to drive even faster.

The drive then was so reckless and literally, at two-three points it seemed to be a dead end.

It was already dark and if we fell at that time, there will be no one who could have known that we met with an accident.

But, after 15 minutes of driving like that, we were able to catch up.

Meeting the Kargil War hero

We reached Kargil and booked rooms in a hotel.

In the hotel, people were so friendly that they served us food even at 11pm.

At that time in the night, we wanted to eat something light, so Anoop Singh asked them if they could serve 'Khichdi' to us.

They were not aware of how to make 'Khichdi' and told Anoop that if he knew the recipe, he can use the hotel kitchen to cook.

Anoop came to the room and asked me 'Is khichdi fine for dinner?'

'What? We are not ill to eat khichdi' I replied promptly

'I just want that we should eat something light that is also easy to digest' Anoop made a point

'Ok' I agreed

Anoop made Khichdi and we had our dinner.

At the hotel, we met a Kargil war hero.

He is a civilian, who during Kargil war traveled 40km's during night time to serve meal to the Army men who were fighting at the top of the hill.

He told us various stories about the wartime and also told us that he had a close save for more than 6 times during the war.

Respect for him

Day 4 - Reaching the Final destination

Day 4 of the trip and as planned, we were to reach the Final Destination - Leh in the evening.

In the morning, we went with the war hero to Border Point.

From the border point, one could see Pakistan with naked eye.

At Border point - Kargil. On the other side of the mountains is Pakistan

With Binoculars, we can see the Indian flag on top of the mountain. In Pic- Anoop Singh

Photo clicking is banned at this point. But we managed to click a few pics as we were with the Kargil war hero.

A video capture of the road leading to the Border point - Kargil

This video was just of 6 seconds and captured by me while driving the Bike. This was an act of total carelessness as I drove the bike with one hand and captured the scene with another.

Now, it's time to leave Kargil and proceed towards our final destination - LEH

We left for Leh and there was no other destination on cards. We'll be stopping just for lunch and clicking pictures on random occasions.

Leaving behind

The day was sunny and the scenic beauty of the place was speechless. So, we often halt to click some pictures with the mountains.

We had previously discussed that if anyone wants to stop and click pictures, he should signal the people in front by blowing the horn repeatedly.

We (Gurwinder and me) were keeping our bike at the last in the group.

On one occasion, we just found a good location and stopped there for a few quick pictures to be clicked. We didn't signal to the people in front of us that we stopped.

Me on that location. Pic credits - Gurwinder Singh

As we were busy clicking pictures, we saw that Anoop is coming back.

Anoop: 'What is this? You should have signaled us if you wanted to click the photographs' he rebuked

We nodded and said that next time we'll surely signal.

After the photo session, we went ahead.

We had traveled just a little and we lost pace again as I was driving. But, it's not a case of worry as within a minute or two we would match them.

On the way, we saw a beautiful child signaling us 'GOODBYE'

The child is so cute and we stopped there to click a picture with him. This time also we didn't signal as we were already behind.

Gurwinder with that kid. The name the kid is Sarfaraz Khan

After around 10 minutes, we started again

Anoop and Sukhpreet were standing after traveling a little.

This time we knew that the matter was serious. We couldn't be so casual at this time.

They both told us to remain in touch and don't lose contact as this is the final leg and we need to reach safely.

Meanwhile, we clicked some colorful pics at Fotula Top

Me - at Fotula Top

Random pose

The Gang

The combined photo-session

We had our lunch and we didn't stop for pics after that.

At one point, near a place called 'Nimmu', Leh was just 40 km's ahead, Anoop signaled to stop.

The place holds a good scenic beauty and it's time for a combined photo-session.

We clicked many pictures and made videos too on that place.

Me - At Nimmu. 40 km's before leh.

After seeing this place, we felt calmness from inside and thought that all the travel was worthwhile for this view.

Difficult roads often lead to beautiful desitinations

The unexpected turn

Everything was fine. After the photo session, Gurwinder was on the driving seat of the third bike and I was sitting at the back.

The roads were great, well maintained and traffic was even less. We were expecting to reach Leh within 30-40 minutes.

Sitting at the back, I was enjoying the beauty of nature.

Within no time, the speed of the bullet was 80km/hr

There was a van going in front of us, Gurwinder overtook that van and immediately there was a left turn

Gurwinder tried to turn the bike in that direction but he was not able to turn and we went straight.

Sitting at the back, I was waiting for him to apply brakes

The bike went off-road and I suddenly felt being flipped in the air.

No thoughts were crossing my mind, I was blank.

There was a clear, dark blue sky but within 1 or 2 seconds the sky went black. My eyes were closed.

The 'dug-dug' sound of the bullet slowly vanished and there was peace.

There was peace.

----

When I opened my eyes, 3-4 people pushing me inside a car. Blood was coming out of my head.

Suddenly, I felt pain in my left leg and I screamed like someone is inserting a nail into my body by hitting a hammer continuously.

I told them not to touch the left leg.

They slowly took the hand away from left leg and the lower part of the left leg was swinging like a pendulum.

This thing gave me a hint that something is wrong.

I took hold of my leg.

There was not even one familiar face. I don't know where was Gurwinder and the other co-travelers.

The people who pushed me in the car told me that the hospital is just 5 minutes away from here.

Just as they were about to start, I saw Anoop.

He asked me: 'Are you fine?'

I was not able to respond and just nodded.

They started the car and after 5 minutes I asked them 'Did we reached the hospital?'

'Just a few more minutes' one of the three persons sitting in the front, replied.

By their expressions, it was clear that it'll take some time.

I was writhing in pain, the leg was paining like hell. I kept one hand on the leg and the other hand on my head. Sand was all over my body. Even a little movement of the body brings more pain. I wanted to scream, wanted to cry but couldn't. I know I need to keep calm. This was the moment of utmost pain.

At first, we reached the nearby dispensary. There I saw Gurwinder lying on the bed next to me.

There they gave us First aid and from there, we were taken to Hospital in Leh by Ambulance.

At last, we reached Leh on Day 4 but this is not we imagined that we'll reach there by Ambulance.

After 2 days, we booked flight tickets and came back home. Our tour ended in dismay.

But, the remaining two co-travelers, Anoop and Sukhpreet did complete the tour.

Cheers to their enthusiasm

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The life afterward

At the time, we were driving, after every 200m there was a signboard to drive slow. But, we neglected every signboard that time but now every moment, we realize that if we could have taken even one signboard seriously.

The doctors after operation told that it will take around 6 months to be back.

The told this simpler word - six months.

But, every second, every minute is becoming difficult. 

At times, I feel helpless, I feel disabled. Every time I hold Walker to walk or get-up, I regret the decision of going to Leh.

We were not aware the gravity of the situation at the time of the accident. But, living even one moment like this is a mental pain.

I don't feel like talking to people, I don't feel like replying to texts. I don't feel like going out as people see with sympathy.

There are unexpected changes in my behavior.

Now, little things could hurt me a lot or even smaller things could give me joy. Like, when I put my foot on the ground, I feel the coolness of the ground. These little things which earlier didn't matter are now a source of joy.

Keeping all things aside, now I just want to walk.

A few days back, Gurwinder sent me this video

Muniba Mazari

This is the most inspirational video, I saw until now.

Now, internally I know that every moment I'm healing. God must have better plans for me.

The other people

I just talked on myself being in pain by the accident but didn't mention about the other people.

Gurwinder's left leg is also fractured and he is on bedrest too.

The other two co-travelers, might not physically but mentally they have experienced pain too.

Anoop told 'I came to the accident site after 15-20 minutes and I saw Gurwinder was sitting on the floor. My mind went blank, I don't know what to do, what has happened.'

I remember, while I was undergoing treatment at Leh hospital on 11 June, I told the co-travelers that I'm hungry please bring something to eat.

At 1am in night, in a town totally unknown, they were roaming on roads looking if some dhaba/ restaurant or any shop is open. I don't know from where but they came back with food in hand.

So, everyone felt the pain.

But as we know 'Sab time-time di gal aa'

This time will pass too and this tour will be remembered for lifetime


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I big thanks to everyone, who is with me during this time.

JD who come every Sunday to my home just to take me out. Anoop, Sukhpreet for everything.

Gurwinder, who despite being injured, is motivating me to stay calm.

Special thanks to Designr
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